1985-1995 Toyota 22R and 22RE Long Block Crate Engine - 4WD
Has your stock 22R or 22RE engine given up and isn't rebuildable anymore, or do you want to go through the hassle of a rebuild? How about an all brand new, street-able, performance replacement?
Wait, say what???
You read that right! An all brand new 4WD 1985-1995 Toyota 22R or 22RE long block crate engine with cast iron block and cylinder head, a stroker crank, H-beam rods, and a Pro Torquer cam, all built and ready for you to drop in, and does
not require stand alone engine management for an EFI setup.
Power? Yep, how about 130HP and 160lb/ft of grunt on pump gas?
Warranty? Will 1 year unlimited miles do?
Each one of these ALL NEW engines is hand assembled and tested over the entire process by one person per engine from oil pan to valve cover. The final steps include running the engine on our dyno for initial cam break-in and final shake-down testing.
If you need the same 1985-1995 Toyota 22R or 22RE long block crate engine for a 2WD truck or Celica we have you covered. Check out the 2WD 22R/RE street stroker.
All Street Stroker Long Block Engines are assembled with the following components:
- New STD Bore Cast Iron Block
- LC Street Stroker Crankshaft
- LC Forged H-Beam Connecting Rods w/ ARP Rod Bolts
- LC Street Stroker Forged Pistons (9.7:1 compression)
- Oil Pan (including drain plug, pick-up tube, hardware and gaskets)
- SAFETY Main, Rod & Thrust Bearings
- Japanese Water Pump
- LC Pro Oil Pump
- LC Dual Row Timing Chain Kit with Metal Backed Guides
- LC Custom Timing Chain Cover
- Harmonic Balancer
- Full Dipstick Assembly
- Rear Main Seal and Housing
- LC Pro Cylinder Head with Mild Port Work, Intake and Exhaust Studs
- LC Street Performance Valve Springs and 1mm Oversized Stainless Valves
- OE Aluminum Rocker Arms & LC Pro Rocker Shafts
- LC Pro Torquer Camshaft
- New Head Bolts
- New Main Bolts
- Powder Coated 9-bolt Valve Cover
- Billet Oil Cap
- LC Billet Block Plates for EGR Crossover and Fuel Pump
- NGK Spark Plugs
- OE Oil Filter
- Intake and Exhaust Gaskets are Included
NOTE: Oil sender hole is plugged for assembly and shipment.
A Long Block engine replacement will require swapping out parts from the original engine to the long block. These parts include the intake manifold, the exhaust manifold, distributor, alternator, power steering pump (if installed in the vehicle), and air conditioner compressor (if installed in the vehicle). As a general rule of thumb, all LC Street Stroker long blocks will be assembled entirely from valve cover to oil pan, but will not include intake, exhaust, or ignition.
NOTE: NO CORE CHARGE
Contact our Tech Support Line for further information at 928-575-2174.
Note: Images are for illustration purposes only. Images may not represent the product listed. Please contact customer service with any questions or concerns: 1-928-505-2501.
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Thank you for purchasing one of LC Engineering performance Toyota engines. Your Pro series long block has been custom built for your application. All LC Engineering long blocks have been started and tested on our engine dyno. This engine was assembled with a performance camshaft. This higher lift & duration camshaft will emit slightly more valve train noise than the stock camshaft. This is normal. Follow the valve lash specification supplied on the cam card that came with these instructions. Check valve lash regularly at the recommended intervals.
LC Engineering technicians performed initial camshaft break-in. Your engine still needs a break-in period to achieve maximum engine life. Please read and follow the guidelines closely. These instructions are intended to aid a professional mechanic in the installation of your engine. If you do not feel competent in doing the installation yourself, seek the assistance of a professional. Follow the break-in guidelines closely.
Installing the Engine:
Follow factory recommendations for installation of intake manifold & carburetor (EFI Intake), exhaust manifold or header system, clutch & flywheel assembly, crank pulley, starter, alternator, etc. A new pilot bearing has been installed in the end of the crankshaft. Install engine in vehicle. Make sure you install the ground strap on the back of the cylinder head to the firewall. Failure to hook up this ground strap could cause electrolysis, damaging the aluminum cylinder head.
We suggest that the following items be cleaned, inspected and replaced if necessary:
- Carburetor or Fuel Injection System
- Fuel Pump, Fuel Filter & Fuel Lines
- Distributor, Distributor Cap & Rotor
- Coil, Plug Wires & Spark Plugs
- Radiator, Radiator Cap & Thermostat
- Fan Belts, All Hoses & Lines
Before Starting Your Engine:
Check fuel quality. If vehicle has been in storage or not running for more that 30 days drain fuel tank and add fresh premium grade gasoline. Purge old fuel from fuel lines before connecting to carburetor or EFI system. Check system for adequate fuel pressure. Check battery condition. If vehicle has been in storage or if battery is low, place on battery charger or replace. Double-check your ignition wiring and firing order. (Firing Order 1-3-4-2) Set the ignition timing to factory recommendations. Improper ignition timing can damage your new engine. Set the timing carefully.
Install oil filter and fill engine with the proper amount of petroleum based engine oil. Do not use any synthetic oils or oil additives for the first 5000 miles. Follow factory oil viscosity ratings for your area. Fill cooling system with the proper amount of coolant. Do not start new engine without coolant in the system. Excessive heat build-up could result damaging your engine. Double-check all vacuum hoses. A vacuum leak could cause your new engine to run lean causing permanent engine damage.
Initial Startup:
If engine fails to start immediately, stop and check Ignition Timing and Fuel Delivery. Prolonged cranking could cause premature engine failure.
To start engine, follow procedures below:
1. Run engine at 1500 rpm for 20 minutes
2. Turn on heater. Add coolant to radiator as needed.
3. After a 20-minute period, idle down and set idle at factory specifications.
4. Set the Ignition timing at this time to factory specifications. Note: When setting timing on an EFI engine, you have to jump the terminal in the diagnostic box. Follow shop manual for procedure.
Break-In:
Your LC Engineering engine requires a short break-in period to insure proper performance during the years to come.
During the first 500 miles follow these guidelines:
- Do not drive over 65 mph.
- Do not drive for long periods at any single speed. Always vary your engine rpm.
- Do not drive slowly with the transmission in high gear.
- Do not rev the engine at high rpm’s excessively.
- Do not tow a trailer or put other heavy loads on the vehicle.
Check the engine oil and coolant levels daily during this period. After the first 500 miles of service the engine oil and filter must be changed. Check the valve lash and re-torque the cylinder head. At this time it is a good idea to recheck the ignition adjustment. Look over the hoses for sign of leakage – water, fuel, and vacuum.
Maintenance:
Your LC Engineering Street Performer Engine requires only normal maintenance after the first 5000 miles. Recommended oil change is every 2500 miles.
Cam Card and Valve Adjustment. Included in this packet of instructions is the camshaft card for your engine. Keep this cam card. It contains information on the camshaft timing and valve lash requirements for your engine. On Street Performer engines, lash valves as per factory recommendations. Always check valve lash with the engine hot. Valve lash should be checked after initial engine break-in at 500 miles. Check valve lash again at first oil change or 2500 miles. Then follow factory recommendations.
Miles: Recommended Service:
- 500 Check Valve Lash, Visual Inspection
- 2500 Oil & Filter Change
- 5000 Oil & Filter Change, Check Valve Lash
- 5000 + Follow normal maintenance schedule as instructed in Owners Manual.
Follow factory recommendations for fuel, spark plugs, plug gap and oil viscosity. LC Engineering recommends NGK or Bosch spark plugs and Valvoline or Castrol oils. Do not use any synthetic oils or oil additives for the first 5000 miles.