Pro Turbo Kit
(Low Boost)
Does your 2RZ engine need some more power? The best way to boost the performance of these little engines is to bolt a turbo up to it!! LC Engineering has already done all the homework for you. By testing numerous different turbo and manifold designs we have been able to design the ultimate kit for you!!
One of the issues we have seen with turbo charging a daily driven vehicle is the extreme heat the turbo makes. Normally we like to use a tubular style header to get the most performance out of your turbo kit but unfortunately the extreme temps and long loads caused by a daily driven application can actually break down a traditional "tubular" style header. For this reason we recommend the tubular header for race or extreme applications only. To eliminate this issue on our Street Turbo Kits we use an all steel, CNC machined manifold. This manifold has shown excellent longevity with minimal power loss (over a tubular header).
The main component of any turbo kit is obviously the turbo itself. We have had a lot of experience with different turbo set-ups and we have found that the Garrett T3/T4 turbo is the best overall application for our kits. The T4 inlet allows for large amounts of air to be brought into the turbo, while the T3 side allow for a quick spool up. With today's aftermarket supply it is easy to become overwhelmed with turbo options but the T3/T4 is still one of the mot common and most versatile turbo's available. For our low boost kits we use a TO4B S-trim, with a stage 3 turbine wheel and a .48 A/R exhaust housing.
This kit is perfect for most daily driver or even some race applications depending on your exact needs. The kit is designed to run anywhere from 5lbs of boost up to 15lbs of boost!! Even mild boost can take your little 2RZ engine upwards of 250hp!!
One major issue to consider when boosting your engine is fuel management. Your stock ECU was not designed to compensate for boost, especially high levels of it. LC Engineering always recommends addressing this issue to prevent any poor performance or engine damage that can be caused by improper engine tuning. One of the best ways to fix this issue is with a stand-alone or piggy-back ecu system. LC Engineering offers the Haltech kits as a stand-alone and we also offer
Split Second controllers as a piggy-back option. Contact one of our techs for more information on these products.
Kit Includes:
- Garrett T3/T4 Turbo (TO4B S-Trim, Stage 3, .48 T31 Turbine Housing)
- CNC Billet Steel Turbo Manifold
- Ceramic Coated Stainless Steel Downpipe
- Ceramic Coated "Hot Pipe"
- Silicone Couplers
- T-Bolt Clamps
- 40mm Wastegate
- In-Cabin Boost Controller
- Oil Feed & Drain Lines w/all Necessary Fittings
- All Necessary Hardware, Gaskets and Fittings
NOTE: The EGR is required to be deleted for this turbo kit.
Contact our Tech Support Line for further information at 928-575-2174.
Note: Images are for illustration purposes only. Images may not represent the product listed. Please contact customer service with any questions or concerns: 1-928-505-2501.
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LC Engineering has pre-assembled your turbocharger and turbocharger exhaust manifold with the appropriate fittings to simplify your installation and ensure proper fitment. You will need to install the down tube and waste gate to your turbocharger assembly prior to the installation onto the engine. Install the turbo down tube gasket and down tube to the turbocharger exhaust flange, at the same time checking alignment with the waste gate V-band flange. Using the copper cleave nuts provided; slightly tighten the nuts at this time for proper alignment. Install the waste gate V-band flange clamp. Verify that the V-band flanges are mating correctly before final tightening of clamps. Tighten V-band clamps. Tighten exhaust down tube flange nuts to 14 ft-lbs.
Preparing the cylinder head for turbo kit installation:
With your exhaust manifold removed and exhaust surface prepped, install the new exhaust studs into the cylinder head with Red Loctite 271 and torque to 10 ft-lbs utilizing the “double nut” method. Install the exhaust gasket onto the cylinder head. Install the turbocharger and exhaust manifold assembly onto the cylinder head. Utilizing the exhaust stud nuts provided secure the manifold to the cylinder head and torque the nuts to 33 ft-lbs using the proper torque sequence. We recommend re-torquing the exhaust nuts after five heat cycles.
Installation of the oil drain to oil pan procedure:
Locate the proper weld on flange location before you remove the oil pan. Gather the oil drain hose from the turbocharger, the 45-degree adapter fitting, and weld on flange. You want the fitting location to be just below the oil pan rail, where it bolts to the block, leaving enough room to rotate the fitting to tighten. After you have determined the drain flange location, remove the oil pan. Drill a hole for the fitting and weld it in place. Debur the oil drain port, clean the oil pan flange and this is an opportune time to paint the new welded location to make it look factory. Re install the oil pan as per the factory service manual using the proper sealant. Do not forget to add oil!
Installation of the oil feed supply line:
Locate the oil filter adapter that mounts the oil filter to the block. You will be removing one of the port fittings from the adapter and replacing it with new fitting to allow oil supply to the turbo. Install the fitting with a copper crush washer utilizing a thread sealant. Install the ¼” NPT to -4AN fitting that will adapt the stainless steel oil supply line to the oil filter adapter.
Installation of the hot pipe to the engine:
The hot pipe assembly will consist of the “S” hot pipe, silicone couplers, hoses, and clamps. Using silicone spray will ease hose installation and will help with sliding hose over the tube and throttle body. Tighten T-Bolt Band Clamps after hose placement. Do not over tighten these T-Bolt Band Clamps as it could result in a cut silicone hose. The turbo compressor may be rotated if required.
Installation of Oxygen Sensor:
The turbo down pipe has a provision for an 18mm x 1.50 screw in type oxygen sensor. This is a typical Bosch style oxygen sensor size, found on after market fuel management systems as well as wide band air/fuel ratio kits. We also provide a plug for this port if it will not be utilized in this kit.
Installation of the variable boost controller:
We have provided this turbo kit with a variable boost controller that will allow you to adjust the boost level to your desired PSI. The “mechanical” spring in the waste gate supplied is preset to 7 PSI. Adjusting the boost controller will allow you to override this setting. Instructions for the waste gate and boost controller will be on the disc provided. This is a “single stage” style boost controller. Locate your desired location for the boost controller to be mounted in the cab. You will not need to adjust this too often, after the initial setting of the boost PSI. Route the vacuum hoses from the waste gate to the boost “T” as per the diagram. Make sure that you route the hoses out of harms way, as you do not want them to get burnt or damaged. Start with the boost pressure low and increase slowly while checking for proper tuning on the engine to avoid engine failure. See Turbo smart disc for further instruction.
Make Sure Your Ready For Boost!:
Making sure your engine is ready for boost is very crucial. Items in the bottom end as well as the top may or may not need to be changed to ensure nothing catastrophic happens. Take a look at the list below to make sure you are covered.
Low Boost 0-10 PSI Boost
- Cylinder Head Studs
- New Oil Pump
- Street Performer Valve Springs
- New Head Gasket
- Some sort of engine management system may be required
High Boost 10+ PSI Boost
- Cylinder Head Studs
- New Oil Pump
- Dual Valve Springs Chromoly Retainers
- New Head Gasket
- Forged Piston Kit (Compression level varies by level of boost)
- Forged Rods (H-Beam)
- Pro Fuel Injection Kit 0-30 LBS