What is a Genuine WEBER Carburetor?

This is a much debated topic, but mostly among those selling what can only be described as a "Similar" carburetor. The “Similar” carburetors are easily distinguished from the

European Weber by several characteristics:

• The Genuine European Weber’s have the trademark "W" stamped into the carburetor and are clearly marked with its origin "Made in Spain".

• The only markings on some of the "Similar" carbs are a sticker. There are no markings indicating where it is made or who made it.
• The casting on the "Similar" carburetors is very smooth. While you might assume that is better because if it's appearance they are not made using the same metal resulting in the difference in appearance.
• Another way to spot the "Similar" carburetors is that a lot of them have a black choke element - all of the Redline Webers coming from Europe have a White choke element.

We hope to clear some confusion by different merchants claiming they are selling Genuine Weber carburetors. How does a consumer discern what Genuine really means?

The WEBER Story

The founder of WEBER carburetors was Eduardo Weber. The WEBER carburetor company as we know it started in 1935 in Bologna, Italy. They produced carburetors there till 1992 when production was moved to Spain. When we think of WEBER carburetors this is the company that we refer to. The “WEBER” name is currently owned by Magneti Marelli of Italy. This international company owns many other brands – the most interesting of which is SOLEX. The Solex carburetors were a major competitor to WEBER for almost 60 years – and today they are owned by the same parent company. Magneti Marelli licenses the use of the “WEBER” name to many entities worldwide. Licensing in some cases means they can use the WEBER name and the WEBER mark to brand a product that otherwise would not be recognized as a WEBER.

Car manufacturers regularly brand products. GM produces a car in Europe (Opel) in a plant that GM owns – brings it to the states and sells it as a Cadillac Cetera. Does that mean it is a Cadillac? Ford jointly builds a car with Mazda (626 and Probe) with primarily Mazda drive train – does that make it a Ford? This policy is called “combination branding” when one parent company places the same brand on products that compete in the market place – i.e. Pontiac, Oldsmobile, Saturn, Cadillac, etc. all sold as GM. In the case of GM they needed a nice midsized vehicle and the Opel was easy to brand a Cadillac. GM did sell cars in the US under the OPEL name plate for years, but stopped when sales did not meet expectations. Was GM hiding something from the public if they did not disclose that the Cadillac they were buying was really an Opel? This is the problem with branding (licensing) a product – the consumer may be buying something they believe is one brand – when in fact it is made, designed, and or engineered by a different company. Both companies can be owned by the same parent company – but are they the same?

That is the situation with WEBER carburetors today. Certain companies have no affiliation (other than maintaining licensing and manufacturing agreements with Magneti Marelli) with the Italian designed and Spanish built Weber carburetors. But this licensing agreement means that a specific company can legally use the Weber name. Continuing that line of reasoning they claim they are “genuine” and they may in fact be – legally. But are they “Genuine”? In our opinion “Genuine” infers two things – that it is real and original. There is only one original Weber and that is the European produced, Italian designed, carburetor built in Spain. These carburetors were originally designed and engineered by the Weber Carburetor company in Italy. Consumers should be aware that what this company is doing is importing a Solex designed carburetor from South America – branding it a Weber – and calling it a “Genuine” Weber. They reason that if Magneti Marelli owns the Solex factory then it can legally be called a “genuine” Weber. We will leave it up to the reader to decide for themselves whether they believe this is what a person would believe to mean “Genuine” (legally it says so).

Now this company has taken it a step further (as of the Summer of 2011) and is now supplying the 32/36 DGV series and the 38 DGS series carburetors and branding them as Weber's just as they did with the Solex Carb's from South America. Below is a detail list of the models in question.

European built Weber carbs - originally designed and engineered in Italy by Weber and now being made in Spain (what most would call "GENUINE")

• 32/36 DGV
• 38DGAS
• 40DCOE
• 45DCOE

How to Spot The "Similar" Carburetors:

• 32/36 DGV - no markings to indicate it's origin - not "made in Spain" - sticker branded
• 32/36 DGEV - no markings to indicate it's origin - not "made in Spain" - sticker branded
• 38/38 DGAS - no markings to indicate it's origin - not "made in Spain" - sticker branded
• 34 DGEC (solex carb) branded with a sticker to make it a Weber
• 36 DGEC (solex carb) branded with a sticker to make it a Weber
• 40IDF - no markings indicating its origin
• 44IDF - no markings indicating its origin

This goes to show you the issue is not isolated to just the North American Market - these "similar" carbs are being sold worldwide.

Summary:

In the end what does this all mean to the consumer. First you must understand what you are buying and why. The choices are: The Original Italian designed and European Built WEBER or the carburetors that are "Similar" from other places with the “cheaper” price. Up until 2001 Weber carburetor conversions all utilitized the European Carburetors. While there where competitors, there was one undisputed leader - Weber of Italy. That has all changed with the Parent company Magneti Marelli now owning one of the oldest carburetor names in the business, and a former competitor, Solex. It is interesting to note that at Magneti Marelli's website the founding of the Weber carburetor was to eliminate having to buy carburetors from the French Solex carburetor company. While legally Magneti Marelli can allow branding - they seemly would allow these businesses to take a frozen dinner and call it a Weber this certainly that calls into question the whole concept of branding.

So - when you buy - do you want the original? The WEBER carburetor that is legendary in its performance. A proven carburetor with a track record extending over 30 years. The Italian designed carburetor that was, and is, the benchmark by which all 2bbl carburetors are measured. Built in Europe to the same exacting standards that only the original European Weber carburetors can deliver on. Or - do you want a branded or "Similar" carb (usually without knowing your aren't getting the original European Weber). The choice is simple. Be sure it says REDLINE to assure you that your "genuine" European WEBER carburetor is tuned and jetted for the absolute best value your money can buy. REDLINE's use of the European WEBERS assures the consumer they are receiving the same high quality genuine WEBER carburetor that has gone into the conversion kits for over 30 years. Time and race proven - there is really only one "genuine" Weber carburetor - the Legendary European designed and built WEBER (made in Spain).

If it sound too good to be true, it probably is.

Weber 32/36 For Toyota 20/22R Carbureted Vehicles

Fitment:

• Pickup: 20R/22R All carbureted models
• Celica: 20R/22R All carbureted models

Thank you for purchasing a Weber carburetor conversion kit. Our kits are designed to unleash the performance of your engine, but not at the cost of reliability and fuel efficiency. This installation guide covers vehicle preparation, old carburetor removal, carburetor installation, and new carburetor adjustments. There's also a trouble-shooting guide, if needed.

NOTE: Legal in California only on racing vehicles which may never be driven on a highway.

Kit Includes:

• New 32/36 DGEV carburetor
• Manifold base adapter
• Hardware / linkage kit
• Chrome air cleaner

Tools that will be needed to install this conversion kit:

• Metric socket & wrench set
• Metric allen key set
• Screwdrivers
• Pliers (needle nose)
• Gasket scraper
• Wire brush

Supplies that will be needed to install this conversion kit:

• Carburetor cleaner
• Clean rags
• Engine cleaner
• Aluminum foil
• Tags (to label hoses, etc.)

For Safety Purposes:

• Use clamps on all fuel hoses.
• Do not use gasket sealers, use gaskets provided.
• When removing old carburetor label all hoses and wires.
• If Necessary, clean engine before installation.
• Use Loctite on hardware inside air cleaner and intake manifold studs.
• If rewiring is needed always use an insulated connector or tap.
• Never allow dirt in the carburetor.
• Do not over tighten jets or throttle linkage.
• Never operate the engine without a fuel filter.
• Do not allow fuel to spill or leak.
• Be careful not to cut or dent the aluminum gasket surfaces of the intake manifold or carburetor.
• Always wear eye protection.

This section should be completed before you install this Weber Conversion Kit.

• Please make sure that the Parts were not damaged in shipment.
• Please check the contents of the kit against the picture on page 1.
• If any parts were missing or the parts were damaged in shipping please contact your Weber Dealer.
• Verify that your vehicle had a recent tune up and you do not have any other mechanical problems. The Weber Carburetor can not fix engine, and ignition problems.
• Weber Carburetors require 2.5 p.s.i. of Fuel pressure. If your fuel pressure is more than 2.5 p.s.i, obtain a Fuel Pressure Regulator from your Weber Dealer.
• The electric choke and idle cut-off solenoids require a key hot 12-Volt source.
• Connect the electric choke to the Vehicles existing electric choke power source using a jumper wire.
• You must remove the EGR valve pipe. The manifold will be sealed with the plate provided in the kit. (check local laws ) NOTE: You should have no exhaust gas leaking from the EGR.
• Weber Carburetors are preset at the Factory. Only make adjustments to the carburetor after the installation, and running the vehicle for the first time. After the carburetor is installed record the factory settings if needed in the future.
• Please save your sales receipt and all carburetor documentation for future use.

Removal of old Carburetor:

1. Remove the Battery’s negative cable.
2. Take off the original Air Cleaner Assembly.
3. Remove the Fuel Supply hose that is attached to the carburetor and label it.
4. Remove the Fuel Return hose and plug it.
5. Remove and label the vacuum hoses connected to the carburetor.
6. Remove and label all of the electrical connectors attached to the carburetor. Identify the electric choke wire.
7. Remove the Float bowl Vent hose and plug it.
8. Remove and label all electrical and vacuum connections to the vacuum switching valves and remove them along with the vacuum manifold.
9. Remove the PCV hose from the Carburetor.
10. Remove carburetor and all spacers and gaskets from the intake manifold. Place a clean rag in the intake opening to keep dirt and tools etc. out. NOTE: Do not forget to remove the rag before installing the Weber Carburetor.
11. Remove the manifold studs from the intake manifold. Double nut each stud to remove. NOTE: Double nutting may ruin the nuts, however it will not damage the studs.
12. Remove any excess gasket material from intake manifold. You can use a gasket scraper, wire brush and carburetor cleaner. NOTE: Do not use a wire wheel or any power tools as they may damage the manifold.

Weber Carburetor Installation:

1. Install the EGR plate on the intake manifold, and screw the vacuum fitting into it.
2. Remove the adapter plates, gaskets and hardware from the packaging. Please see picture for order of installation.
3. Mount the first adapter and gasket to the intake manifold making sure that the allen head bolts are flush. Mount the top adapter and gasket to the bottom adapter plate.
4. Remove the carburetor from the box, locate the throttle lever and fold back the lock tab and remove the throttle lever from the carburetor and replace it with the throttle lever that is supplied with the kit. NOTE: Do not over-tighten the nut for the throttle lever linkage, binding may occur.
5. Install the Weber Carburetor on the four mounting studs. Using a criss-cross pattern tighten evenly. Fuel Inlet Faces front of Vehicle. NOTE: Do not over-tighten.
6. For 4 Wheel Drive trucks only. The original throttle cable bracket has to be raised. Use the spacers and allen bolts in the linkage kit. They mount under the bracket.
7. Reinstall the throttle linkage rod to the carburetor.
8. Throttle Linkage adjustments (cable or rod): While holding the choke plates open turn the throttle linkage by hand to release the fast idle cam from the screw then release the throttle lever. Now adjust the rod or cable until you have some free play. To check for full throttle operation have a helper hold the accelerator pedal to the floor and check the throttle lever by hand for additional travel, you can shorten the cable or lengthen the rod as required to eliminate additional travel. Hold the choke plates open and release the accelerator pedal and check again for any free play. NOTE: You must have free play in the cable or rod and throttle lever must return to the idle position every time you press on the accelerator pedal. You should not go any further in the installation unless the throttle is working properly.
9. If vehicle is equipped with an automatic transmission, make sure that the A/T kickdown cable pulls till its end when the accelerator is to the floor.
10. Locate the fuel inlet pipe (see picture) on the carburetor and connect the supply line to it.
11. Take the EGR hose and connect it to the fitting that was installed in the EGR plate.
12. Locate the vacuum advance hose and connect it to the vacuum advance port on the carburetor. (see picture below)
13. Locate any open vacuum ports and hoses and plug them. (check local laws) Locate the wire for the electric choke and connect to the electric choke.
14. At this point make sure that all hose clamps are tightened and that all of the electrical connectors are connected and insulated.
15. Reconnect the Battery’s negative cable.
16. Crank Engine without starting and check for fuel leaks. NOTE: Do not go any further without inspecting and fixing.
17. Remove Air cleaner from packaging. Connect plastic breather tube to air filter base then bolt air filter base to carburetor using the four screws provided.
18. Attach the breather hose from the valve cover to the air cleaner.
19. Put the air filter element on the air filter base and attach the air cleaner top with the clips provided.
20. To check the clearance between the hood and air filter, place some crumpled up aluminum on the air cleaner top and slowly lower the hood and check clearance.

Carburetor Adjustments: (see pictures for identification of components)

• Only make the adjustments discussed here if necessary.
• To set the idle speed make sure that the engine is warm, set the speed to the vehicle manufacturer’s setting. To raise the speed turn the idle screw (clockwise) in, and to lower the speed turn the speed screw (counter clockwise) out.
• To set the idle mixture turn the idle mixture screw in slowly (clockwise) counting the amount of turns you make until the idle speed drops off. Turn the screw out (counter clockwise) counting the turns until the idle drops off again. Turn the screw now back in half the distance that you turned out. Now the mixture is set.
• To set the fast idle make sure that the engine is cold. Press the accelerator pedal to the floor and let go. Start the engine (do not touch the accelerator pedal once you touch the accelerator after the engine is running the fast idle cam is disengaged. The engine should be revving between 2000 and 2500 Rpm’s. Turn off the engine. To adjust the fast idle speed turn the fast idle screw in (clockwise) to increase engine RPM, to decrease engine RPM turn the fast idle screw out (counterclockwise) Do not touch the accelerator and restart engine to check RPM.
• The choke is Factory set. To adjust make sure that the engine is cool (below 68F) Turn the throttle linkage all the way to set the choke. The plates should be closed. Make a mark on the plastic choke cap and the carburetor where the two surfaces meet. Loosen the three screws one turn. Hold the throttle about one third open and start twisting the thermostat cap (counter clockwise) until the choke plates fully close, then slowly turn the cap 1/8” (you should feel the spring tension in the choke tightening). Retighten the three screws (do not over tighten). You may now have to go back and check the fast idle speed and adjust if necessary.

Trouble Shooting Guide:

In order to properly trouble shoot any suspected carburetor problems please double check the following:

If the vehicle will not start please check the following:

• Check that the fuel pump is functioning properly.
• Check with pressure gauge.
• Make sure that the ignition system is functioning properly.

If the engine idles too fast or too slow or stalls please check the following:

• Make sure that you have no vacuum leaks. You should check all engine vacuum line connections and at the carburetor base (including the adapter plates).
• Check all Carburetor adjustments. Idle mixture, idle speed, and fast idle. In this order.

If the engine idles fine but acts as if it is running out of fuel when driving please check the following:

• If new fuel filter was not installed install one now. The old fuel filter may be clogged.
• Check that the fuel pump is functioning properly.
• Check with pressure gauge.
• Check all fuel lines. Make sure that the lines are not pinched or kinked.
• Check that the vehicle has not run out of gas.
• Check the fuel tank venting system. (Refer to vehicle shop manual)

If the engine runs rough or sounds like it is missing at idle please check the following:

• Make sure that you have no vacuum leaks. You should check all engine vacuum line connections and at the carburetor base (including the adapter plates).
• Check the idle mixture adjustment.

NOTE: If you were not able to correct the problem with the information provided above contact your Weber Dealer. Also please remember that any additional engine modifications such as Headers, High Performance camshafts, free flow exhaust systems may require that the carburetor be re-calibrated.